I think EPR can be Good for the Industry: If it's Done in the Right Way

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to understand how textile producers perceive the introduction of an EPR system for textiles in Sweden. In addition, the study aims to contribute with knowledge about how textile producers connect an EPR system for textiles to be an enabler for circular economy (CE) and a driver for innovation. The textile industry is dominated by a linear business model of producing, distributing and using textiles. Stakeholders within the EU view the introduction of an EPR system for textiles as a potential incentive for more sustainable design of textiles, a driver for innovation as well as a tool for enabling the production of more sustainable products. Sweden aims to be a frontrunner in developing a large-scale closed loop system for textiles by introducing an EPR system for textiles as a tool for enabling the transition to a CE. The methodological approach in the study is qualitative with an empirical basis consisting of semi-structured interviews and document analysis. The thesis is a multiple case study consisting of four selected case companies. The study has an exploratory approach for the researchers to understand the phenomenon of an EPR system for textiles. Based on previous studies of EPR systems and circular economy, we present a gap in examining how a large collection system for textile waste is perceived to contribute to a CE. The responsibility framework and theories related to regulatory pressure were applied to position the companies’ perceptions to be in line with EPR idealism or EPR pragmatism. Furthermore, the concepts of CE and innovation were applied to analyse how the companies connect the proposed EPR system to be an enabler for CE and a driver for innovation. The analysis concludes that the textile producers perceive the introduction of an EPR system alone as not sufficient to enable a circular economy. For the proposed EPR system to connect to CE, the challenge of recycling textiles on a large-scale need to be solved. The producers acknowledge the importance of innovation for enabling CE in relation to EPR, and they perceive the system to stimulate business opportunities and drive innovation within the textile industry.